London Fashion Week AW 12 is now sadly over and as promised, here is the first post on Menswear Day yesterday, as it closed an exciting and exhausting week.
Dear gentlemen get ready for posts of a variety of menswear designers and shows… Let’s get started with the picturesque and salvage prints of British menswear designer Matthew Miller, who labelled by Vogue as one to watch, unleashed his AW12 collection yesterday.
He achieved his siganture’s concept of ’technology vs traditional’ with a season inspired by the ’1940s, commandos and survival on the streets of London’. I first thought: ‘Amazonia’ will be the headline of this post’, as the show began with strong browns and oranges, using prints that could send your imagination to a rainforest surrounded by different textures, smells, sounds and flavours. But the bright reds and neons came out together with waterproof materials and matching skydive look alike backpacks -I was expecting a parachute to open- so my first impression changed, however, part of it stayed. The sportwear touch seemed to me a colourful and classy skydive gear as tailor meets innovative outwear in a collection for intact and extreme men.
Although there’s a slight combination of fabrics, the main highlight of this collection is the prints and the meaning of each of them, making reference to a specific surface or place, such as Waterloo graffitis, Hyde Park trees, concrete, Hackney and Shoreditch . In addition, he includes a footwear collaboration with Oliver Sweeney, made with the same prints and which Miller says ‘it’s going to be massive’.
Miller’s AW12 presents a chameleon hidden in different surfaces and colours, reflecting the soul behind every man, don’t you think?